waves - class notes

Waves have historically been an important part of coastal life as depicted in this famous Japanese wood carving

1. what is a wave?

• a disturbance in a medium that transmits energy from one place to another.
• there are several types of waves, transverse and compressional

2. Parts of a wave

3. How are waves generated?

4. The growth of waves and the sea state code

5. Particle motion in a wave -demonstration

6. Breaking waves - the difference between a sea and a swell

• surfline web site

7. The effects of waves on coastlines - slide show.

8. Special types of waves - tsunamis and tides

9. For more information or details try these reference web sites

• neptune's web
• ocean news